American monument
When we arrived, we first went to the American monument, placed right next to this remarkably beautiful field where not 100 years ago a horrific war was waged. After this monument, we headed to some bunkers that were on a farm with some goats! Then we headed to the first graveyard of the day. Next we went to a cathedral, took a quick lunch break, and then headed to the In Flanders' Fields museum. This museum is so good. If you are ever in Ypres, please go. It really depicts what WWI was like and makes it real. Its very moving. There is one area where you stand near this speakers and it hear what the Christmas Peace must have been like, with soldiers singing in English and German, shouting back and forth, "Merry Christmas!"It was really moving to think about that happening, the glimpse of humanity even in war. There is another part of the museum where it represents what Passchendale was like - wow. That was very emotional.
Goat!
Copy of "In Flanders' Fields" in a bunker near where McCrae wrote the poem
Anyway, after the museum we headed out to a few more graveyards. We went to the German graveyard, where there are 40,000+ soldiers buried in mass graves. Then we went to the British graveyard and memorial. There is a little museum at the beginning. As you walk up, you hear a woman's voice saying names and ages. These are the names and ages of every British soldier who died in WWI. There is a display of many things pertaining to these men, but my favorite were the letters. You can actually read letters send back and forth. I saw several that men had written to their parents, a few that wives wrote to their husbands, even one a soldier had written a woman named Mabel to tell her that Frank has died the night before...Thinking about those families at home, bravely writting their soldiers, not even knowing if they were still alive...wow. And then you walk to the actual graveyard. There is a beautiful monument, and the whole area overlooks the salient area.
British Graveyard
I really loved our time in Ypres. As I walked from grave to grave, reading the names of men and what was written on their stones (everything from Bible verses to "Dearly beloved by his wife and little son" to "Age 23. Thy will be done"), all I could do was say thank you. These men fought for my freedom. Most in these graves were not even American, yet they sacrificed their life for my freedom. They gave it all to fight for what they believed in. My respect for these soldiers grew immensely as I learned more about what they faced. Actually seeing the places where men fought and lost their lives, where they overcame the enemy against all odds (seriously - the Germans were on the higher ground), where they lived and suffered from all kinds of illnesses yet still went to fight every day to protect freedom, this really changed my perspective.
Graves of soldiers from all over
I think another reason this was so moving was because of my brother. I am so proud of my brother, who is currently at a military school, preparing to serve my country and defend my freedom. Thinking about him and how he wants to protect the things that America stands for, and then seeing the ages and hearing some stories of boys who did the same thing in WWI just made it more real for me. The mental image of WWI was all the more vivid in my mind because of this. So thank you to everyone who sacrificed to defend freedom, both in the past and the present and those to come.
Thankful that I could stand on this bunker with these friends freely!
But if you want to know my opinion about military service and discipline? I am antimilitarist. I am devoted to my beloved Belgium, I hate Germany, and everything military.
Forgive my bluntness, but I have learned that in life, we must be loyal above all else..."
- Louis H., 2e Rgt. des Carabiniers, War Diary, 10. February 1917
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